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Banger Video Salvage!!! Great work

A very very nice rabbit hole you went down

The corners should be rounded not 45°ed. It would match the rounded corners on the cage. As previously stated elsewhere... The muffler NEEDS to be mounted to the engine. Bracing it to the frame will only GUARANTEE it will break again. The motor moves when starting and vibrates while running. If the muffler is mounted to the frame or the top skin in any way it will be fighting every vibe the motor puts out! Hopefully you read these and redo it before it fails. Other than that, love the welder! It reminds me of the P&H welder I got in my back yard. Things as big as a Kelvinator fridge! (Not really in yard, built addition on house to cover it...) Speaking of which, I wish the Red d Arc people would have given you a Tig setup for it. I guess that would be more complicated though with solenoids for gas high frequency starter etc...

Beautiful job....A step drill bit would be perfect for the front panel to make those small holes, probably not on the big one though

That’s a 30 amp 240 plug very common for lower amp power

What brand of work pants are those? Are they any good?

I would strait pipe it and put the cap on top. A lot less weight. But that's just me. You do you.

awesome!!!👍

You have done an awesome job on this, really enjoyed these videos. I have several welders and plasma cutters that need repair , after watching this i think its time i got round to fixing them. just hope i can find enough time to fix them , thanks again for the videos you , diesel creak and cutting edge engineering are my favourite channels.

Needs a Salvage Workshop sticker/airbrush on the side and your signature beside it to show the workmanship and multi trade level skills you brought into this resurrection. Great Job Matt

you need to treat yourself to a large step drill would have done that socket hole perfect and a lot easier and faster

Brilliant job as always Matt, but the only concern is your muffler support bracket. I feel you have created something that is going to cause your manifold to crack very soon. Your engine is on rubber mounts so it very vibrant freely but you have caused the muffler to be fixed in a ridged position. You need some heat resistant rubber on the inside of the clamp so to allow it to still vibrate freely off the outer casing. Otherwise amazing job and you should be proud of what you have achieved

A couple of fifteen dollar boafeng radios with voice activation to talk earpieces would have been great here.

Heck of a job - really enjoyed the series, and especially the fact that you painted it all up to look new - John

Use a old conveyor belt for making mounts of any kind

If I was you next time your at an Auction look for an old conveyer belt make for dam good mounts for anything and cheap. My Grade father told me this trick 60 years ago

Awesome job man, I've enjoyed watching your videos. Glad you went all the way with this welder. I have an old stick welder in my shop that I pulled out of a scrap dumpster. I had personally welded many lbs of rod with this welder. I'd Love to have it restored. Not sure where your located or how to get ahold of you but I'd Love to have it restored. I live in Pa and work in the Bakken Oilfield in ND. New Subscriber Mark

The rubber mounts we always used were old conveyor belt. Lasts forever.

Masking tape boo boo! It's easy to not be bothered and save yourself the minute but a couple layers of masking tape over where you put the breaker for protection and over the hole you enlarged for the twistlock. I assume you have some dividers in your treasures, you could have marked the new OD for your outlet and been dead on.

😱😱😱 1;28 h !!!

I'd have used the top half of the Red-D-Arc sticker on each side of the hood. I wouldn't have wanted the wrong model up there (if it's wrong) but the top portion would have spiced that hood up nicely.

Nice man

Beautiful machine restoration, only thing that bothers me is not having a high/low idle like every welding machine ive seen. Even the classic 3 which pretty sure is what that is has high/low idle

When you drilled the hole in the angle for the clamp for the muffler, I would have used something like a 1/8 inch drill bit first and then the bigger one. It works easier for me.

I wonder if that is the same metallic blue rustoleum I have been trying to use on my machine restorations...on both the drill press and the jointer, the paint does the exact same thing.

Matt really love thses kind of machine maintenance videos

This project turned out to be awesome, very enjoyable.

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Wow! Great looking rig! I am a little worried about the muffler attached so solidly to the exhaust manifold without some sort of flex coupling - but hopefully it will be fine.

MUFFLER: With the muffler fixed, and the engine moving, something will crack.

Realy a good job Bravo!

I suspect you really need to add a short flexy section of pipe between the manifold flange and the muffler, otherwise with a rubber mounted engine and a rigidly mounted exhaust, something will have to give. I have a lot of experience with failing exhausts due to vibration on my S&S engined V Twin Three Wheeler Morgan. I actually now have two flexy sections between the down pipes and the muffler section and even those are mounted on rubber metallastic bobbins.

Be proud. Looks great!

By making the muffler ridged you are adding a lot more stress to the exhaust manifold, if you want it more ridged secure it the engine itself so it can move with the engine and eliminating the whip like action of the long muffler set up which is causing the manifold to break.

Did an amazing job it looks awesome can’t wait to see were it goes from here

your engine move from the frame and your mufler not !!. no good!!!! same craks soon.

I haven't seen it but I would assume the motor mounts involve rubber to some extent for vibration purposes. If that is the case and you lock that muffler down solid I believe you will shorten the life of that manifold 10 fold. The torque of the motor is going to be load on the muffler/manifold. It would be better to attach it to the frame with some sort of rubber mount. Similar to exhaust hangers used on most cars. The muffler has to be able to move with the motor. That's the reason the hole in the hood is larger than the muffler, so it has room to move.

Awesome restoration, but keep your die grinder away from my shit 😅

Good work 🎉🎉

Fantastic job Matt the welder turned out very nice

Good work man, we need more videos

I'm going through an old Clausing 8520 milling machine... I don't feel sorry for myself, anymore! Impressive work to get that Cincinnati running, again.

Bolting the muffler to the frame without some movement is a bad Idea. Looks cool overall, nice job!!!

Excellent work on your welder. Suggestion: Build a new heavy trailer to support this wonderful machine.

Super nice job good work

That is really cool of Red D Arc. Definitely goes to show what kind of company they truly are.

Projects Do Snowball, don’t they?

Great Series, well done. You should support the muffler from the engine somewhere, so it can move with the engine on the rubber mounts.

You are over thinking the muffler brace. It needs to be able to move with the motor. Why use rubber motor mounts and then secure the muffler to a rigid brace?

GREAT JOB.😎😎